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Izusan Shrine: History, Yoritomo and Masako Romance, Visit Guide
Izusan Shrine in Atami is where Minamoto no Yoritomo and Hojo Masako fell in love and where Kamakura shoguns made the annual Nisho pilgrimage. A complete guide to its 1,200-year history and visit.
Contents
MOKUJI
Origins as Hashiriyu Gongen — Ancient Sacred Spring
Yoritomo and Masako — A Love Story That Changed History
The Nisho Pilgrimage — Shogunate's New Year Ritual
Musubu-Myo Shrine — Prayers for Lasting Bonds
Visiting Izusan Shrine
Related Spots
Frequently Asked Questions
Izusan Shrine (伊豆山神社, Izusan-jinja) in Atami is the ancient shrine where Minamoto no Yoritomo and Hojo Masako fell in love during his exile, and which became the destination of the Kamakura shogunate’s annual New Year pilgrimage, known as the Nisho-mode. Originally venerated as Hashiriyu Gongen (Running-Hot-Spring Avatar), the shrine commanded reverence from mountain ascetics, samurai, and aristocrats long before the Kamakura period. Its steep stone staircase, the sacred Musubu-Myo Shrine for marriage prayers, and the rock where Yoritomo and Masako are said to have sat together all await visitors today.
Origins as Hashiriyu Gongen — Ancient Sacred Spring
A Hot Spring That “Runs” to the Sea
Stone staircase of Izusan Shrine — 837 steps to the main hall
Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0 / photo by Naokijp
Izusan Shrine traces its recorded history to before the Nara period (710–794), when it was known as Hashiriyu Gongen (走湯権現), meaning “avatar of the running hot spring.” The name refers to a remarkable natural phenomenon: superheated spring water (around 70 °C) gushes from a horizontal cave in the mountainside and flows — “runs” — directly into the sea below. This Hashiriyu, now enshrined as Hashiriyu Shrine, is regarded as the sacred origin of Atami Onsen.
Mountain Ascetics and Syncretic Faith
The shrine was a center of Shugendo mountain asceticism and the syncretic fusion of Shinto and Buddhism. Its principal Buddhist manifestation was Amida Nyorai. Ascetics from across the Kanto region came to perform cold-water ablutions in the Hashiriyu and to undertake mountain training on Mount Izusan’s slopes. This deep religious tradition is still reflected in the precincts’ atmosphere of layered sacredness.
Yoritomo and Masako — A Love Story That Changed History
Exile to Izu at Age Fourteen
Main hall of Izusan Shrine — the ancient shrine where Yoritomo and Masako fell in love
Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0 / photo by M-safe
After the Heiji Rebellion of 1160, Minamoto no Yoritomo was exiled to Izu Province at the age of fourteen, entrusted to the local warrior-steward Hojo Tokimasa. Over the following years he came to know Tokimasa’s daughter Masako — and the two fell deeply in love. The forested precincts of Izusan Shrine, where Yoritomo could move with some freedom, became the setting for their secret meetings.
The Wedding-Day Elopement
When Tokimasa attempted to marry Masako off to a man of his choosing, she refused — and on the very day of the planned wedding she fled through rain-soaked mountain paths to reach Yoritomo at Izusan Shrine. This act of defiant courage overturned her father’s decision. The couple married with Tokimasa’s reluctant acceptance. In 1180 Yoritomo raised his banner and began the march that created the Kamakura shogunate.
The Lovers’ Stone
Stone where Yoritomo and Masako sat together — a relic of their famous elopement story
Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0 / photo by Naokijp
In the shrine’s precincts stands the stone on which Yoritomo and Masako are said to have sat together — a tangible relic of their famous romance. Touching the 腰掛石 (sitting stone) connects visitors to the most celebrated love story in Japanese medieval history.
The Nisho Pilgrimage — Shogunate’s New Year Ritual
A Tradition Yoritomo Founded
After establishing the Kamakura shogunate, Yoritomo instituted the custom of making a New Year pilgrimage to two shrines: Izusan and Hakone Shrine. This “Nisho-mode” (二所詣) was continued by his sons Yoriie and Sanetomo, cementing both shrines as sacred to the Minamoto warrior house.
Sanetomo’s Famous Poem
The third shogun, Minamoto no Sanetomo, composed one of his most celebrated waka during a Nisho-mode: 箱根路を わが越え来れば 伊豆の海や 沖の小島に 波の寄る見ゆ (Crossing Hakone pass — I look out to the Izu Sea, where waves lap a small island offshore). The poem appears in the Ogura Hyakunin Isshu (No. 93), giving the pilgrimage route a permanent place in classical literature.
Musubu-Myo Shrine — Prayers for Lasting Bonds
The Innermost Sacred Space
Musubu-Myo Shrine within the Izusan precinct — the marriage-bond deity who united Yoritomo and Masako
Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0 / photo by Naokijp
Deep within the precincts lies the Musubu-Myo Shrine (結明神社), dedicated to the deity who brought Yoritomo and Masako together. “Musubu” (結ぶ) means “to bind” — prayers here are offered for romance, marriage, and enduring bonds of friendship and family.
“A Woman Who Runs, Not a Woman Who Waits”
Masako — who defied convention, ran through the rain, and chose her own fate — gives Izusan a distinctive quality. Visitors who pray here invoke the spirit of a woman who acted. This draws many who seek strength alongside good fortune in love.
Visiting Izusan Shrine
Item
Details
Access
10 min by bus from JR Atami Station east exit; alight at Izusan-jinja-mae
Stone Steps
837 steps from the coast road to the main hall (about 20 min on foot)
Time required
40–60 min for main precincts; add 40 min for the Honguu inner sanctuary
Must-see
Main hall, Musubu-Myo Shrine, Lovers’ Stone, red-and-white dragon purification basin
Best time
Early morning — quieter, cooler; autumn fog over Sagami Bay
Footwear
Sturdy walking shoes; summit trail is steep
Related Spots
Izusan Shrine — main precincts
Hashiriyu Shrine — the running hot spring, origin of Atami Onsen
Izusan Soto-Gongen — Shugendo heritage site
Hakone Shrine — second stop of the Nisho pilgrimage
Related figures: Minamoto no Yoritomo / Hojo Masako / Minamoto no Sanetomo
Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the climb to the Honguu summit shrine?
The main hall (Shimomiya) is reached after 837 stone steps from the coastal road — roughly 20 minutes. The Honguu inner sanctuary sits about 500 m up and requires a further 40-minute hike on a steep forest trail. Water, a hat, and sturdy footwear are essential.
Why is Izusan called Hashiriyu Gongen?
The name refers to the 70 °C hot spring that gushes from the mountainside and “runs” down to the sea. This Hashiriyu is enshrined as Hashiriyu Shrine and is historically the origin of Atami’s famous hot springs.
What is the best season to visit?
Autumn (October–November) offers cool temperatures and morning fog over the bay. Cherry blossom season (late March–early April) is beautiful but crowded. Weekday mornings year-round are consistently quietest.
Can I receive a goshuin (red-stamp certificate)?
Yes. The shrine office is open approximately 8:30–16:00. Several designs are available, drawn from the Yoritomo-Masako tradition and the Hashiriyu Gongen motif. Hand-written on weekdays; stamped booklets available when busy.
Last updated: May 2, 2026
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